Rolex has expanded the 1908 collection with the Perpetual 1908 Settimo, a yellow-gold dress watch with an all-new seven-link bracelet. Settimo, Italian for ‘seven’, refers to the number of links across the bracelet; five slender links in the centre framed by two broader links on each side. The result is a supple, tightly constructed bracelet that complements the refined proportions of the 1908.
Powered by the advanced cal. 7140, the replica watches UK remain impressively slim at just 9.5 mm, combining Rolex’s famous industrial precision with genuine elegance, filling a long-standing gap in the brand’s line-up.
Initial thoughts
When I think of best Rolex replica watches, the image in my mind is one of long-term thinking, industrial expertise, over-built movements, and iconic (but fairly chunky) designs. The 1908, especially the Settimo version, shows the brand also understands elegance. The Settimo bracelet recalls vintage ‘beads-of-rice’ bracelets and works well with the vintage-feeling aesthetic of the 1908.
The slightly glistening lacquered dial and crisply faceted hour markers provide a bright, vivid appearance; perhaps its the sub-seconds at six and the lack of a date window, but it feels more refined than the dial of a typical Datejust or Day-Date. The case is very sleek on the wrist thanks to the cal. 7140, which, at just 4.05 mm in height, is 34% thinner than the brand’s own cal. 3235.
No watch is perfect, and there are a few details that I find mildly annoying, like the plug atop the hand stack, which is necessary to fill the gap leftover by the relocation of the seconds to a sub-dial at six. It looks fine, but serves as a reminder that the cal. 7140 was designed as a centre-seconds movement, and was not purpose-built for this version of the 1908.
Though undeniably expensive for a time-only watch from an industrial brand, the value proposition is easy to understand with the watch in-hand. The bracelet and case are slim but satisfyingly heavy; given the current price of gold, it feels exceptionally de luxe. And though it’s dress Swiss fake Rolex watches, the typical Rolex build quality is apparent, making it probably the most robust dress watch in its segment.
All told, the 1908 punches above its weight, and on the elegant Settimo bracelet it leaves equivalents from Jaeger-LeCoultre and Omega behind and takes aim squarely at the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.
Lucky number Settimo
The new seven-link bracelet transforms the 1908. For years, AAA replica Rolex watches have offered just a handful of bracelet designs, which have become household names: Oyster, President, and Jubilee. Each of these bracelets is best-in-class, and copied relentlessly. Evidently unsatisfied with its own stable, Rolex developed a new bracelet for the 1908 rather than adapt an existing model.
The result is the Settimo, launched (and still available exclusively) in 18k yellow gold. White gold and Everose gold models will likely follow in the future, but yellow gold was the appropriate choice for the initial launch because it’s the colour that best accentuates the vintage feel of the 1908.
The bracelet is thin and heavy, with tolerances that are tight enough to give it a bit of stiffness; out of the box, it doesn’t cascade under its own weight like a vintage bracelet. That’s either a plus or a minus depending on one’s perspective, but it showcases the unmatched manufacturing prowess of 1:1 fake Rolex watches. The clasp, coined Crownclasp, features a hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism that feels secure but is completely invisible on the wrist, akin to that of the Day-Date bracelet.
Though the actual construction of the bracelet links and clasp are not revealed by Rolex, I am certain the bracelet is built to Rolex standards – which basically equates eternal longevity – rather than the jeweller-like build quality of most gold perfect clone Rolex watches bracelets. This, more than anything, sets the bracelet apart from the competition, but will only be tangibly apparent in decades.
The only controversial aspect of the bracelet is its end-links, which are slightly curved but don’t fit snugly against the case the way the brand’s other bracelets do. It’s essentially a variant of the “straight end-link” style found on many vintage bracelets.
On one hand, this gives the bracelet a somewhat generic look, since at first glance it doesn’t look purpose-built for the case. On the other, it results in a charming, vintage feel and helps reduce the visual bulk of the copy Rolex watches for sale. I was initially put off by this detail, but I now feel like it was the right choice, given the trade-offs.
The bracelet can be purchased on its own and retrofitted to a 1908 originally purchased on a strap, but it’s prohibitively expensive to buy separately – as is always the case for the subsequent purchase of a gold bracelet, regardless of brand. It’s more likely to convert buyers who were already considering a 1908 but haven’t yet taken the plunge.
The 1908
The bracelet is new, but the rest of the package remains the same. The 1908 replaced the chunkier Cellini collection in 2023, and takes it name from the year the company was originally established by Hans Wilsdorf. The Rolex 1908 was a big upgrade from the Cellini, which never really had a chance to be a great dress watch, hamstrung by its reliance on the thicker cal. 31xx-series movements borrowed from the brand’s popular sport cheap replica watches.
That said, the 1908 feels more like a thoughtful evolution, rather than a revolution, sticking with the Oyster case and fluted bezel. But it’s substantially thinner, now under 10 mm thick, making it thinner than some manually wound peers. For those who like their dress watches gold, time-only and, above all, slim, the 1908 fits the bill.
The case is also elegantly sculpted, calling to mind vintage Rolex Day-Date models. The lugs don’t taper to a point in quite the same way, but the case offers a more organic feel than some slab-sided peers. But it’s still undeniably an Oyster case and feels reassuringly robust; its 50 m water resistance rating supports this sensation.
The silvered lacquer dial is big and bright, and while the 18k gold applied numerals could stand to be a bit sharper, the faceted hour markers are pleasingly crisp. The dial printing is (thankfully) kept to a minimum, with the ‘Superlative Chronometer’ text draped over the sub-seconds register a la the Veriflat of the 1950s.
Notably, the bracelet is also available on the 1908 with a black dial, though on the quiet; all of Rolex’s promotional material for the Settimo show the white lacquer dial.
Silky and Syloxi
Being a new reference defined only by the addition of the Settimo bracelet, the cal. 7140 within is unchanged. That said, it’s still one of the most technologically advanced movements on the market, featuring Rolex’s proprietary Chonergy escapement and Syloxi silicon hairspring.
The Chronergy escapement is Rolex’s own version of the Swiss lever, with revised geometry designed to improve efficiency. It’s paired with a silicon hairspring, which is likewise proprietary to best selling Rolex replica watches, featuring coils that are carefully designed with varying thickness to ensure concentric breathing.
Rolex has recently gotten in the habit of offering display case backs, which I appreciate. The overall build quality is evident, with a large solid gold winding mass rotating on ball bearings, and extremely precise finishing of functional surfaces. Note the especially neat edges of the engraved text throughout the movement; almost anything else looks rough by comparison.
The rest of the finishing is attractive, but not astonishing, with priority given to the areas most likely to catch the eye, like the single wide machined bevel around the balance wheel. There are a few details I’d change if I could, like the faux chatons machined into the bridges, but there’s little to complain about and the movement is clearly a sign that China Rolex dupe have its sights set on the great houses of Geneva.
A close look at the movement layout reveals it was born to be a centre-seconds movement, which means the subsidiary seconds dial at six is powered by an auxiliary gear train, hence the gold cap on the central hand stack. Reading the technological tea leaves, I’d expect to see a centre-seconds model join the 1908 collection in due time.
While on a forward-looking note, duplicate Rolex watches review have subsequently developed an even more advanced movement based on this platform, the cal. 7135 found in the Land-Dweller, that features the brand’s new Dynapulse escapement. Depending on the brand’s ability and inclination to scale production of the new escapement, it would not surprise me to see Dynapulse make its way into the 1908 collection as well.
Conclusion
The Settimo bracelet was somewhat slept-on at Watches & Wonders. Debuting attached to an existing model in the shadow of a new Land-Dweller collection and the Dynapulse escapement, it arguably didn’t get due attention. But it’s a worthy addition to the Rolex portfolio and, to some extent, alters the dress top Rolex fake watches landscape, giving the already compelling 1908 the added versatility (and bling) of a bracelet.
Key facts and price
Rolex Perpetual 1908
Ref. 52508
Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m
Movement: Cal. 7140
Features: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 66 hours
Strap: Settimo bracelet in 18k yellow gold
Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex authorised dealers
Price: US$35,900; or 51,100 Singapore dollars